Category: Gardening techniques


moving-shrubs-step5Deciduous shrubs should be moved while dormant, and evergreens in September/ October, or March/April. Dig a small trench around the shrub so that you can get your spade underneath, and lift out a good-sized root ball. To compensate for the damage to the roots, prune back the top growth of deciduous shrubs by 25 per cent to reduce trasnpiration from the leaves. Evergreens should not be cut back, but they will benefit from protection form cold, drying winds. Spray with an antitranspirant spray, sold as Christmas tree spray.

If the root ball is heavy, place it onto an old compost sack or other heavy-duty sheet in order to drag the shrub to its new planting site. Alternatively a sack trolley might do the job.

Source: ‘Short Cuts to Great Gardens- Reader’s Digest 1999

herbaceous-garden-border-plantsPlant Close

Squeeze out weeds by placing plants close to each other. Buy small plants rather than larger ones; they are cheaper and establish faster. Plant out in groups of odd numbers for a balanced effect.

Give Support

Invest in plant supports that are quick and easy to use and that will last many years. Insert them early in the growing season, avoiding any need to support damaged plants later in the season.

Keep in Trim

Encourage bigger and longer-lasting flowering displays by regularly removign fading blooms.

Source: ‘Short Cuts to Great Gardens’- Reader’s Digest 1999

double-digging-hero‘There is great healing power in digging. This is so much the case that one is tempted to wonder if any actual electrical power comes up to one from the earth. Perhaps the benefit is merely from the rhythmic movements of the body. At any rate, however sulking and rebellious one may be at the start, sesitiveness creeps up the fork into hands and body and legs. Finally the brain surrenders and one is again at peace with the garden.’

Clare Leighton 1935

PUB0006342V_711526Save time removing old, browning conifers by transforming them into a new garden feature by pruning.

Brown in the centre?

Remove the small dead branches, especially those form the centre, to reveal the shapes of the main branches. Cut off a few of the lower, larger branches so that you can underplant the conifer with ground-cover plants that tolerate dry shade, including vinca, Geranium (Cranesbill) and Lamium.

Brown at the base?

Variegated ivy or Periwinkle (Vinca) planted at the base of the tree will use the brown. lower branches as aclimbing frame.

Standard conifers?

Transform a conifer into a standard by removing all branches up to 1.5 metres (5 feet)- or lower if desired- and then lightly trim the top to shape.

Source: ‘Short cuts to Great Gardens’- Reader’s Digest 1999

Old School Gardener

 

WP_20160429_16_54_22_ProTo Walter Degrasse

Dear Walter,

Well, a busy month this one, and I’m pleased to say that one or two big projects have moved on a pace.

Though I’ve made some inroads into digging over the borders and getting seedlings going, these two things are suffering somewhat as I spent most of the available time (dodging windy, cold and wet weather), making progress in the pond garden and to an extent preparing the ground for my new shed (you might recall that I have a supply of old floorboards that I’m planning to use for this and acquired some cedar shingles for the roof).

The new area for an extended shed- and an attempt to keep nettles at bay!

The new area for an extended shed- and an attempt to keep nettles at bay!

I’m pleased to say that after many sessions of earth removing (I must have shifted ten tons or more), I finally got the underlay and liner installed and some of the major features on their way; stepping-stones, a waterfall and rockery (made out of flints given to me by my neighbour and some old valley tiles) as well as a sitting terrace with a four pole and rope swag along which I plan to train a couple fo yellow roses and some purple clematis.

I’m just at the point of finishing off the surround and path on one side and then putting in some gravel and stones to create a couple of shallow beach areas, before planting it up. I’ve got hold of a good supply of plants from a local nursery as well as things people have given me,  some existing plants I want to move as well as some form seed, so it’s getting to that exciting part of ‘clothing’ the garden structure! I’ve also created a small bog garden at one end so that I can grow marginals/wet loving plants there as well as on some shelves I’ve created round the edge of the pond. I’m also looking forward to getting my waterfall going- I’ve bought a solar-powered pump to supply the water.

The mound I’m creating to overlook the fields and church has grown considerably with the rest of the pond spoil, so this should be quite a feature once its settled. I’ve made up the new bench we were given by Deborah’s mum and put this in the kitchen garden, so the bench that’s currently there will be transferred to the mound. ~And i’m well on with restoring the other, old rustic bench we were also given by Deborah’s mum- painted cherry red with dark brown wooden seating and back. It should make a great focal point in the pond garden. I’ve also re used the three or four Cotoneaster bushes I eventually dug up from in front of the house (the area where we hope to have the paint stripped back)
This was some feat of brute strength in the ned, but I’m pleased it’s now fully cleared, and I can give some thought to what to put in here after the works have een completed.

The mound grows!

The mound grows!

Elsewhere in the garden there are plenty of tulips and other spring flowers on display, but I keep seeing the weeds in the main borders and know its unlikely I’ll get to them anytime soon; the pond needs finishing off and next week we are off to the Isle of Skye and Glasgow for about ten days. I’ll try to send some blog posts and pictures while I’m there, as I’m sure there’ll be plenty of horticultural and nature interest (as well as the Talisker Distillery of course!).

In the kitchen garden, things are fairly well organised and up to speed; I have planted my first and second early potatoes, some celery and leeks. I have some seedling Calabrese plants in the greenhouse and we continue to enjoy last years’ planting of purple sprouting broccoli as well as the first very sweet pickings from the forced Rhubarb!

A couple of days ago a neighbour made me a very generous gift of a shredder/chipper and home-made collection box. though unused for a while I understand it does work, so I’ll perhaps get it fully serviced before I use it. It will make shredding material for the compost heap and paths etc. a whole lot easier and will mean I don’t have to light quite as many bonfires.

So, this month, old friend , it feel’s like I’m getting somewhere, notwithstanding that lingering guilt at letting the borders get out of hand.. for now.

I hope that you and Lise are well and enjoying the spring- such as it is so far!

Old School Gardener

Sedum 'Chocolate Drop'- the foliage as attractive as the flower- and what a combination!

Sedum ‘Chocolate Drop’- the foliage as attractive as the flower- and what a combination!

We tend to think a lot – some of us almost entirely – about flower colour when we consider planting in the garden. Leaves last far longer than blooms, so why not go for a combination of flower and foliage that will add texture to flower colour and shape?

Some leaves are striped, others marbled or speckled, while others range from purple, silver and blue, to butter-yellow or lime-green. Geranium (Cranesbill) and succulent-leaved Sedum are good examples of plants that pack a punch with their leaves, as do Hostas and Lamium.

Stipa gigantea- wonderful

Stipa gigantea- wonderful

You can creat a soft, billowing effect with plants that have feathery foliage, such as Bronze Fennel, or those with masses of leaflets, such as Aquilegia and many of the ferns. Ornamental grasses can also be used to soften displays; many are particularly useful because they are drought tolerant. I grow several here at Old School Garden, and I love the variety they add to a herbaceous border with an evergreen structure of shrubs; Stipa gigantea is especially lovely when the late afternoon sunlight catches its stalks and waving awns.

From flower to seedpod- Agapanthus

From flower to seedpod- Agapanthus

To sum up….

  • Blend foliage plants with flowering ones to keep the border looking at its best over the longest possible time.

  • Combine foliage and flowers that contrast with each other in colour,shape and texture.

  • Use plants with ornamental seed pods, such as Agapanthus, Feathery grass heads, such as Pampas grass and evergreen foliage.

  • Use plants with variegated leaves, such as striped, blotched and marbled, to their full advantage.

  • Choose flowering plants that have attractive foliage, such as Alchemilla mollis and geranium so that they add interest to the border over several months.

Hostas are usually grown for their foliage- which comes in all sorts of patterns and hues, but the flowers can also be very attractive

Hostas are usually grown for their foliage- which comes in all sorts of patterns and hues, but the flowers can also be very attractive

Source: ‘Short Cuts to Great Gardens’- Reader’s Digest, 1999

Old School Gardener

 

g-yellow-climber-on-fenceGrowing climbers against boundaries or internal screens adds interest to a hard or unattractive surface, and is the best use of space in a small garden. choosing the right plant for then right site is the key to minimising work; in particular, you will need to consider the plant’s eventual size, and its preferred aspect.

Also, choose a support system that’s right for the plant- some will cling on without much help, others twine, others need to be tied onto a wire or some other support.

Differetn climbers need different support systems

Differetn climbers need different support systems

Here are some other things to consider:

Do put up the support before planting. Make sure it is the correct size and strength for the climber.

Do kill weeds before planting.

Do add compost when planting and use a mulch to reduce the need to water and weed.

Do invest in long-handled pruners or loppers to cut back tall climbers.

Don’t plant large plants where they will need constant cutting back to keep them within bounds.

Don’t remove canes from new climbers (though if the plant is taped to these you can cut the tapes). Position the canes to enable the plant to clamber easily onto the support.

Source: ‘Short Cuts to Great Gardens’- Reader’s Digest, 1999

Further Information:

‘Social climbers: How to cover a house in plants’- Daily Telegraph

‘Insulating a house with climbing plants’

Old School Gardener

lal304195When choosing a tree for a garden, take care; a large tree in a small garden will lead to problems in years to come. It will dominate the garden and put it in shade. So, unless you have a large garden, avoid large ornamentals, such as Cedars, the Tulip Tree (Liriodendron tulipifera) or Prunus ‘Kanzan’, and woodland trees, such as Oak, Beech and Horse Chestnut.

Of course you may ‘inherit’ trees planted some time ago, or as here at Old School Garden, ‘allowed to grow’. We had to have some serious tree surgery done to a huge Black Poplar that was getting too big for its boots a couple of years ago. I have an aerial photo of the house and garden taken in 1965 in which you can see the young tree just starting on its life journey. After having its crown and sides trimmed it must still be 45 feet tall and about as broad. I’m also contemplating some more surgery (possibly completely felling) two Oaks that have grown up on our boundary with our neighbours and throw a lot of shade which is causing a lot of moss growth on one roof slope of the house.

Even when you choose a tree that’s suitable in terms of it’s above ground size, don’t forget the impact that the roots might have.

If tree roots are a potential problem, restrict their growth by using thick polythene or a polypropylene membrane, which can be trenched into the soil to act as a physical barrier (or ‘root barrier’) and will prevent the roots growing where they are not wanted. New pipes and drains can also be wrapped in the material to prevent roots seeking moisture from them.

Trees planted in areas that are paved or covered in another solid surface (e.g. tarmac) can cause the surface to lift with time. To combat this, the same types of thick membrane can be used to line the hole at planting time to encourage the roots to grow down, and not along the surface. There are a number of types of root barrier available which can be installed either at planting or to help control roots down the line; here’s one example.

Old School Gardener

Hmm... a suitable case for treatment?

Hmm… a suitable case for treatment?

You can extend the life of a freestanding garden brick wall, provided it is still safe.

First, cap the wall top with a coping of engineering bricks, which are water resistant. alternatively use tiles laid on the slant, so that water easily runs off.

Next, cover nearby plants with plastic sheeting, then rake out loose areas of mortar using a wire brush.

Repoint the wall where necessary using a ready-made mortar mix to save time using your own. If the walllooks like (it is probably worth trying to match the mortar to the colour of the existing if you can, so for an old wall it might mean using lime mortar).

Finish off by painting on a silicone sealer to extend the wall’s life and stop algal growth on shady walls. To finish off you can apply two coats of masonry paint- there are plenty of colours available…maybe black or dark green to show off those nice foliage plants and flowers you’ll plant in front?

This approach can be used on freestanding walls, such as those used as garden boundaries. But if your wall forms part of the house and it’s exposed to the elements, then it’s wise to avoid coating it as it needs to ‘breathe’; repointing is the best method of  repair here.

The ultimate in painted walls- extend your garden with a 'Tromp l'oeil'!

The ultimate in painted walls- extend your garden with a ‘Tromp d’oeiul’!

Source: ‘Short Cuts to Great Gardens’- Reader’s Digest 1999

Old School Gardener

 

 

magnesium deficiencyIf a plant lacks certain nutrients, it will look unhealthy- with pale of yellowing leaves, stunted growth or withering stems. In general, sick-looking plants are suffering from more than one nutrient deficiency. However, it can be difficult to identify which deficiencies a plant is suffering from, because there are so many different  types and symptoms can vary from plant to plant.

As a quick and easy solution to reviving a plant that you suspect is lacking nutrients, giver it a liquid feed that contains a good mix of trace elements or a foliar feed for faster uptake. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Some liquid feeds can also be used at half strength as a foliar feed.

Source: ‘Short Cuts to Great Gardens’- Readers’ Digest 1999

Old School Gardener

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