November is upon us, the clocks have ‘gone back’, the days continue to shorten as temperatures fall. What is there to do in the garden this month? Here’s a list of ten top ‘to do’s’ to keep you busy!
1. Clean
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Rake up fallen leaves – especially from lawns, ponds and beds. Put the leaves in a leaf cage or black bags to create leaf mould to use on your garden over the next few years.
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Cut down herbaceous stems and clear the remains of annuals, but leave those perennials that fade relatively elegantly (sedum, astilbes and grasses for example).
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Clear out the greenhouse, wash pots and trays, clean, mend and oil your tools and throw away anything that is beyond hope of reasonable repair!
2. Burn
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If you need to, use a seasonal bonfire (where this is allowed) to dispose of material that can’t be composted. Follow good neighbour and eco friendly practices- avoid smoke nuisance and don’t use petrol/diesel or burn plastics etc.
3. Dig
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This month is probably your last chance to prepare your soil before winter sets in. If it’s heavy, clear the weeds, dig it over and add organic matter to the soil as you dig or lay a thick mulch on top and let the worms do the work for you!
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If you produce a fine tilth, protect it from winter rain, which will damage the soil structure – use a good layer of compost and/or leaf mould, sow a green manure or even lay plastic sheeting over it. The soil will be easier to plant or sow into the following spring.
3.Plant
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Finish planting spring bulbs such as narcissi, crocuses and alliums – even though it’s a little late!
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Plant tulip bulbs – the cooler soil helps prevent the fungal disease ‘tulip fire’. Plant bulbs in containers or in a sunny spot at 2 – 3 times their own depth and double their width apart. They can also be used to fill gaps in beds and borders, under shrubs and trees or naturalised in grass or woodland. Remember that tulips like good drainage and ideally should lie on a thin layer of grit if your soil is heavy, to prevent rotting.
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Pot up amaryllis bulbs, water, keep them initially in a dark, warm place, then in daylight as leaves appear – hopefully you’ll have glorious colour for Christmas!.
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Plant bare-rooted trees, shrubs, hedging and roses as well as fruit trees and bushes. Soak the roots in a bucket of water for an hour before planting.
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Sow over-wintering onion sets, broad beans and garlic.
4. Divide
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Perennials such as daylilies, Asters (Michaelmas daisies) and Golden Rod can be divided and replanted. Cut them down to about 8- 10cms, dig them up and divide carefully. If your soil is heavy clay, do this in the spring. All other perennials are also best left until the spring, especially peonies which dislike being split in cold weather and ‘warm season’ grasses like Miscanthus.
5. Prune
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Roses and tall shrubs (Lavatera and Buddleja for example) should be pruned lightly to prevent wind-rock (reduce stems by about a half). Pruning can be carried out from now on throughout the dormant season. Once the leaves have fallen it is easier to see the overall shape and prune accordingly.
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Do not cut back the less hardy perennials such as penstemons and hardy fuchsias more than a third – the dead stems should give some protection for the crowns in the coldest weather. In colder areas, mulch them with composted bark or something similar and avoid cutting them back fully until they begin to shoot from the base in spring.
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Remove any fig fruits larger than a pea – the really small ones are embryo figs that will be next year’s crop. The larger ones will not survive the winter.
6. Support
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Remember to feed the birds in your garden and provide fresh water.
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Create a small pile of logs to provide shelter for insects and amphibians over the winter.
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Solitary bees make good use of nooks and crannies in gardens over winter, so if you need some build your own by drilling holes in blocks of untreated softwood and then suspend the blocks in a sunny site. (Block dimensions – 5cm x 10cm x 20cm, Drill bit sizes – 4mm, 6mm and 8mm).
7. Protect
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Stop winter moth damage to fruit trees by using grease bands around the trunk.
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Drain and lag standpipes, outdoor taps, irrigation lines and water pumps in advance of really cold weather.
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Cover brassicas with netting if pigeons are a problem
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Move tender plants inside or keep a supply of fleece, bubble wrap or similar to protect them from freezing conditions – this is especially important for recently planted hardy annuals and outdoor containers which can be insulated with bubblewrap and raised off the ground to prevent waterlogging and freezing.
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Protect newly planted trees, hedges and shrubs from the elements with a temporary netting windbreak if they’re in an exposed site.
8. Harvest
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Bring in carrots, parsnips (wait until after a frost), endive, cauliflower and autumn cabbages.
9. Store
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Remove any canes and supports in your garden left from your summer crops or staking– remember to store them safe and dry.
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Check stored fruit and vegetables and throw out any that show the slightest sign of rotting.
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Dahlias – wait until a couple of good frosts have blackened them, then cut the stems back to approximately 10cm from the ground and label each plant as you lift it – it’s easy to forget which is which! Lift the tubers carefully as you dig around them, remove all the soil and store for a couple of weeks in a dry, cool place upside down to allow any residual moisture in the stem to drain out. Once they are completely dry, they can be buried in gritty or sandy peat free compost (used stuff will do) so the top of the tuber is above the compost level. Keep them somewhere frost free.
10.Plan
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Order seed catalogues or invesitgate seed availability online so that you can get hold of the seeds that you want in good time. If you’re a member of the RHS you can get hold of up to 12 packets of seeds (including 9 collections) for only £8.50- find out more here.
Old School Gardener
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Burning is a big no no here. People are too uptight about air quality. Goodness, we are miles from town. Anyone who is inhaling the smoke is trespassing!
Sow broad bean?
I really didn’t think of doing that just yet, I will ponder it (I’ve only just dried the ones I collected about a fortnight ago).
Hi, not sure where you are, but it’s pretty normal to sow broad beans now so that they germinate and put on some growth before they really get going next spring. The thinking is that you will get an earlier crop than if you wait until spring. A good variety is ‘Aquadulce Claudia ‘. Hope this is helpful:)
No idea what variety I have saved, but that they are generations down from when they started in my garden (I think from a seed swap).
Thank you once again for these useful monthly tips!
Reblogged this on Green Lizard's Blog and commented:
Lists of gardening jobs abound at this time of year. This one has great headings and is very clear. Now I just need to get on with it!
Really useful headings. Need to get cracking with these jobs too.