Tag Archive: soil


Control Freaks: 7 tips for reducing garden pests and diseases

Filed under: Gardening techniques, Grow your own food, Pests and diseases, Power of 7- tips, Soils and soil improvement, Wildlife and Nature — Leave a comment
19/07/2013
'Friend or foe?'

‘Friend or foe?’

‘Prevention is better than cure’ applies to many situations in  life and controlling the pests and diseases in your garden is one of them.

As part of the ‘Master Composter’ project providing advice to families and groups about using green waste to make compost and enrich their soil, I’ve recently been sent a useful factsheet about organic pest and disease control. And pest control – specifically pigeons and blackbirds – is presently keeping me well exercised in the garden! More positively, I don’t seem to have had much of a problem with either slugs and snails, aphids or caterpillars – so far. A harsh winter and dry spell may be part of the answer. Anyway, I thought I’d share the basics of this factsheet with you (plus a few thoughts of my own).

Here are 7 tips for effective action to prevent your crops and plants being trashed by those not – so – welcome forces of nature!

1. Healthy soil

Too much fertiliser and your plants will be soft and sappy – providing a lovely lunch for pests and encouraging you to spray to deal with them. Not good practice. Better to feed your soil with a ‘wholefood’ diet of garden compost and leaf mould rather than those ‘fast food’ fertilisers designed to feed the plant and not the soil.

2. Resistant plants

Choose varieties of plant that can withstand the attack of pests and disease; e.g. blight resistant potatoes such as ‘Remarka’ and Sarpo’ and root aphid resistant lettuces like ‘Milan’.

Leaf mould - a great way to improve your soil

Leaf mould – a great way to improve your soil

3. Rotate your crops

Focusing on the veggy garden, crop rotation is an essential technique to build soil fertility and controlling the build up of pests and diseases.  Divide your veg into at least four groups (those in the same or similar families and having similar feeding habits) that stay together each year, but move onto another part of the garden  every spring.

4. Barriers and scarers

Keeping pests out of your crops and off your choice plants is probably the most effective way of reducing if not preventing damage. There is a range of different barriers and scarers suited to different types of crop or plant:

  • Fine mesh netting  – works well for carrot root fly and pea moth as well as pretty well most pests that attack cabbages (flea beetles, cabbage white butterfly, leaf weevils, birds and white fly).
  • Other Netting – useful for preventing birds eating/ damaging fruit and vegetables, but remember it should be tightly drawn to the ground to avoid any gaps – my own experience is that pigeons and blackbirds are past masters at finding the smallest of holes and working their way in! Netting can also prevent cabbage white butterflies from laying their eggs on Brassicas, but the gauge of the net needs to be fine enough to stop them. Also, having used hard plastic mesh netting for a while, I’d suggest investing in those made of softer, string -like material (nylon?), as this will drape more easily over crops.
  • Cabbage collars  – a collar of carpet underlay around the neck of  a young cabbage will prevent cabbage root fly from laying its eggs at the base of the cabbage.
  • Bottle cloches – made out of plastic bottles (tops and bottoms cut off) and placed over newly planted vegetables will prevent them being eaten by slugs or anything else that takes a fancy to them.
  • Small gauge chicken wire – always useful, this can be placed over newly sown peas to stop them being eaten by mice while germinating or being scratched up by cats. Wrapped around flowering bulbs, it can prevent them being dug up by squirrels.
  • Bird scarers – a ‘humming line’ (sometimes called buzzwire) criss – crossed over veg and which vibrates in the slightest of breezes will help scare off birds. You can come up with any number of other devices that use the wind to create noises or flashes of light and colour that will put off the birds, but move them around, as birds get used to things being in the same place and will eventually ignore them. I’ve just bought (for the princely sum of £2.50) a colourful windmill that I’ve stuck atop a cane and put over a spot where pigeons come to pinch my raspberries – we’ll see how effective that is! Another method is to tie up old CDs/DVDs to lines between canes to let them flash and move in the breeze. I’ve also seen some pretty realistic models of Owls and other birds of prey and a host of other devices that you can set up to ward off other birds – I’m not sure if they are effective, though.
A beer trap will entice slugs

A beer trap will entice slugs

5. Traps

Beers traps for slugs do work. Codling and Plum moth traps hung from apple trees and other ‘sticky’ traps can also be effective, using  a pheromone stuck to a sticky base which attracts male insects and gets them stuck in the glue. Greasebands painted around the trunks of apple trees in autumn will prevent the wingless female winter moth from climbing up the tree to mate. Sticky glue is also useful for glasshouse staging if you have a problem with ants. Sticky yellow bits of card hung up in greenhouses can help reduce the white fly population.

6. Beneficial bugs

These are your best friends when it comes to controlling pests in your garden. Planting simple annuals among the veg (e.g. Marigolds, Californian poppies), will attract  a wealth of beneficial insects  like ladybirds and hoverflies which will gobble up your aphids. I’ve put some marigolds alongside my tomatoes in the greenhouse for this reason and also planted Nasturtiums which can attract cabbage white butterflies as a diversion away from my Brassicas.You can also plant a few native shrubs and herbaceous perennials (e.g. hazel and hardy geraniums), create a pond, leave a small pile of logs in the corner of the garden or create a ‘bug hotel’  and feed the birds throughout the winter. There are other ‘biological controls’  that you can buy to deal w ith specific problems- little packets of some of the bugs for use in the greenhouse as well as nematodes that can attack some of the more troublesome pests.  Any or all of these will keep enough wildlife in your garden to eat literally thousands of pests and their eggs!

'Bishybarnabee' - or a ladybird- will eat loads of aphids at one sitting

‘Bishybarnabee’ – or a ladybird- will eat loads of aphids at one sitting

7. Keep it clean

Think ‘clean cut’. If you’re removing a dead or diseased branch from a tree (e.g one with coral spot), make sure you cut into healthy wood and always wash your tools in boiling water or wipe them with surgical spirit afterwards. Scrub out pots and give your greenhouse a good scrub every winter to get rid of over wintering pests. Maximise air circulation by correct pruning of plants and leaving  just a little more space between plants will help control fungal diseases, though his needs to be balanced of course against closer planting to keep weeds under control! Controlling powdery mildew in Roses is something that benefits from greater air circulation, for instance. Finally, and most importantly, be vigilant and check your plants regularly so that any pests and diseases don’t get a foothold. For example, start checking the centre of any Gooseberry bushes in April for Sawfly eggs and larvae. Also be wary of accepting gifts of onion and cabbage plants, as they may well carry onion white rot or clubroot respectively!

So, not a spray in sight – rather planning, forethought, observation and simple control measures can help you beat those garden pests and diseases!

Source: Master Composter Manual Factsheet 4, Jojo Norris, Garden Organic 2013

Old School Gardener

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Green Gold: Making the most of green manures

Filed under: Gardening techniques, Soils and soil improvement — Leave a comment
08/07/2013

cover cropMy previous articles on green manure have covered the why, what, where and when –  this final article deals with how to use them to best effect.

Processing your green manure so that the ground can be used again begins around 3 – 4 weeks before you want to make use of the plot for another crop or plant, or alternatively when the green manure approaches maturity – whichever comes first.

There are various ways in which to process the green manure:

  • Dig it in – simply turn the plants back into the soil, using a sharp spade, chopping up clumps as you go. Aim to bury the plants no more than 15cms deep on heavy soils, or 18cms on lighter ground. grazing Rye and perennial green manures can be tough to dig in if they have grown well – to make it easier cut down the foliage first and leave it to wilt and possibly dig the plot twice with a gap of a week or two between each dig.
  • Leave it to the frost – if you sow a frost tender green manure in late summer you can leave this to be killed by the first frost, and the remains can be left on the soil as a cover over winter.
  • Hoeing – annual green manures, like mustard and buckwheat, can be hoed off, leaving the top growth in place or added to a compost heap. You can plant through the green mature foliage or cultivate it further to create a seed bed.
  • Mulching – a light excluding mulch can be used to kill off the green manure – black plastic or large sheets of cardboard held down by straw or bricks etc. Annual green manures will die off in a few weeks whilst perennials and grazing rye will take a bit longer – but you can always plant through the mulch.
A mixed Green Manure ready for digging in
Digging in Grazing Rye

No Dig = no green manure?

You may garden using the ‘no dig’ method. If so, you migth feel that grazing rye, even though it is an excellent soil improver, should be avoided. However, you can cut down the rye, spread it with well-rotted manure if required and then plant a crop of ‘no dig’ potatoes on the surface. these can then be covered with a mulch of hay or straw (around 10cm deep) adding more of this as they grow, and topping off with layer of grass mowings before the potato foliage meets across the rows.

Too tough to dig in?

If you forget to deal with your green manure in time and it becomes tough and woody, don’t worry. Just cut off the tops and put them on the compost heap, then dig in the roots or cover with a thick mulch.

Timing is everything…

If you dig in young annual green manures during the summer they will decompose rapidly, leaving you able to plant up the area within a few days of digging in. Tougher plants, like grazing rye, need to be dug in a few weeks in advance of when you need the ground again, especially in spring when decomposition is slower. If you’re aiming to create a fine seed bed after your green manure remember to leave the ground for a longer period than if you are simply planting into the ground. And avoid using green manures where you plan to sow small seeds such as carrots, parsnips and spinach as some green manures have a chemical which inhibits germination.

I hope that these articles on ‘Green Gold’ have been useful, and that you’ll be using green manures in your garden. I’m certainly planning to build on my early experiences last year with sowing more green manures over the coming winter.

Phacelia in flower

Phacelia in flower

Source: ‘Green Manures’- Garden Organic Guide. September 2010

Other articles in this series:

Green Gold: 12 plants for soil improvement

Green Gold- 7 reasons to use green manures

Green Gold: Where and when to use Green Manures

Old School Gardener

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Green Gold: 12 plants for soil improvement

Filed under: Gardening techniques, Grow your own food, Soils and soil improvement — 4 Comments
03/07/2013
Lupins are useful green manures in light acid soils

Lupins are useful green manures in light acid soils

I’ve written a couple of articles about green manures and today I thought I’d set out a handy guide to some of the commonest types and their pros and cons.

When choosing a green manure it’s important to check:

  • Your soil – some green manures prefer heavy soil, and others lighter soil, some alkaline, some need more acidic conditions.
  • Hardiness of the green manure – not all green manures are winter hardy.
  • Growing period– choose a green manure that will fit in with what you want to grow next. it must be able to germinate and mature to fit in with your growing plans.
  • Crop rotation– choose a green manure that is compatible with your crop rotation. For example Mustard is a Brassica so should be moved around in rotation with that sort of crop. Most of the others listed below are Legumes (peas/beans), but Buckwheat, Phacelia and Hungarian Grazing Rye can be used more flexibly as they aren’t members of one of the main vegetable groups.
  • Sowing time– success depends on sowing the green manure at the right time.
  • Following crop – some green manures, once turned into the soil, can inhibit seed germination for following crops. Avoid growing green manures in areas where you’ll be sowing crops with small seeds like carrots.
Buckwheat has flowers that are attractive to beneficial insects

Buckwheat has flowers that are attractive to beneficial insects

Sow green manures from spring to autumn depending on the variety, and sow broadcast if they are small, or in rows if larger. Rake the ground to a fine level tilth – prepare a good seed bed as you would for other crops. Leave the green manure to grow until three or four weeks before you want the ground for something else, or until the green manure approaches maturity, whichever comes sooner. Green manures vary in their time to reach maturity; e.g. Mustard goes over rapidly as it flowers, so it’s best dug in once the first flower buds show. Other annuals can be dug in at or just before flowering. Clovers and other perennials can be cut down after six months or so to encourage re – growth.

Field Beans prefer heavy soils and can be over wintered

Field Beans prefer heavy soils and can be over wintered

What to plant?

Alfalfa  – Sow April – July. Grows 1 year plus. Avoid acid and wet soils. Nitrogen fixer*. Deep rooting and can be grown for several years, using cut foliage as a mulch.

Buckwheat – Sow April – August. Grows 1-3 months. Thrives on poor soils. Not a nitrogen fixer. Attractive pink flowers attractive to beneficial insects.

Crimson Clover – Sow March- August. Grows for 2-3 months, may over winter. Prefers lighter soils. Nitrogen fixer. Dramatic crimson flowers, attractive to bees.

Essex Red Clover – Sow April – August. Grows 3 – 18 months. Sow in good loam. Nitrogen fixer.

Fenugreek – Sow March – August.  Grows 2-3 months. Well drained soil. Unlikely to fix Nitrogen in the Uk due to lack of suitable bacteria.

Field Beans – Sow September – November. Grows over winter. Prefers heavy soil. Nitrogen fixer. Sow alternate rows with grazing rye to improve weed control.

Hungarian Grazing Rye – Sow August – November. Grows over winter. Likes most soils. Not a Nitrogen fixer. The best for soil improvement, especially on clay soils – but will inhibit small seed germination after digging in.

Lupin – Sow March – June. Grows 2-4 months. Light, acid soils. nitrogen fixer.

Mustard – Sow March – mid September. Grows 1-2 months. Prefers fertile soil. Not a Nitrogen fixer.

Phacelia – Sow March – mid September. Grows 1-3 months, may over winter. Most soil types. Not a Nitrogen fixer. Scented lavender flowers attract bees and beneficial insects.

Winter Tares – Sow either March – May or July – September. Grows 2-3 months, over winter. Avoid acid and dry soils. Nitrogen fixer, and this is quickly available to new plants after digging in.

Trefoil – Sow March – August. Grows 3 months+ . Will stand light dry soils, preferably not acid. Nitrogen fixer. Good for under sowing, e.g. with Sweet Corn.

*Some plants have the ability to gather Nitrogen from the air and ‘fix’ this in nodules on their roots- this supply of Nitrogen is very beneficial to the plants following on.

Mustard is a Brassica and grows very fast, but doesn't do well in very dry weather

Mustard is a Brassica and grows very fast, but doesn’t do well in very dry weather

My final ‘Green Gold’ article will give some tips on making the most of these valuable plants.

Source: ‘Green Manures’- Garden Organic Guide. September 2010

Other articles in this series:

Green Gold- 7 reasons to use green manures

Green Gold: Where and when to use Green Manures

Old School Gardener

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GQT: What is a soil pan?

Filed under: Gardening techniques, GQT: your gardening queries answered, Soils and soil improvement — Leave a comment
23/05/2013
A profile of a typical 'podzol' showing the grey layer of leached out minerals below the dark top level of soil
A profile of a typical ‘podzol’ showing the grey layer of leached out minerals below the dark top level of soil

This week, ‘Gardener’s Question Time’ features soil. A Mr. T. Breck asks:

‘What is a soil pan? I think I may have one in my sandy soil here in south west Norfolk, as my plants don’t seem to be growing very well. Can I do anything to get rid of this?’

Well Mr. Breck, it does sound as though you may have a soil pan. This occurs when certain soil minerals are washed down through the soil by rain lodging some way below the surface. It does often happen in sandy soil containing a high proportion of iron. Over a period of time the minerals weld together to form a hard layer impervious to water. This layer restricts the downward spread of plant roots, so that poor growth results. In former heathland or coniferous forest areas (which is broadly speaking what much of south west Norfolk used to be) these soils may be termed ‘podzols’.

A similar situation can happen if a rotary cultivator is used regularly and its tines  are set at the same depth on each occasion – the action of the tiller blades causes soil compaction at that depth. You can avoid creating this pan by varying the depth of the rotivation.

To remove a pan it’s a case of digging deep and using a pick or fork to break up the welded layer of minerals and incorporating as much organic material (leaf mould, compost, manure) with the replaced topsoil.

More difficult hardpans may be further improved through the action of both adjusting the soil pH with lime if the soil is acidic, and with the addition of gypsum. This combination can help loosen clay particles bound into a hardpan by the actions of hard salts such as iron, calcium carbonate and sodium, by promoting their mobility. It is likely that mechanical removal of the soil pan and some changes to the soil structure as suggested above will be the most successful strategy, rather than relying on just one approach.

Adding home made compost or other organic matter to your soil will improve its structure and nutrient levels

Adding home made compost or other organic matter to your soil will improve its structure and nutrient levels

Whilst we are talking about soil it is perhaps worth just noting what soil actually is. It is made up of many different ingredients including varying proportions of clay, silt and sand. A soil containing a high proportion of clay is considered to be heavy and, whilst rich in nutrients, is often difficult to cultivate, especially when wet. Sandy soils, on the other hand, are light and easy to work, even after rain.

The soil here in the Old School Garden is a sandy loam and is a joy to cultivate, though I do have to add organic material to improve its moisture retention and nutrient levels. So, decomposing plant remains (or other organic material) is another important ingredient of soil as are air and water. Microbes by the million are also present and these and other organisms like earth worms are doing the job of breaking organic material down and  processing this into soil.

Links:

Improving soil by adding organic matter

The importance of organic matter

Compost – 10 things you wanted to know, but were afraid to ask…

Old School Gardener

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Compost – 10 things you wanted to know, but were afraid to ask…

Filed under: Climate change and gardening, Gardening techniques, Grow your own food, Soils and soil improvement — 4 Comments
06/05/2013

compostAs this week is ‘International Compost Awareness Week’ I thought I’d do a little piece about the basics of composting. Hope you enjoy it and look at your own composting efforts!

1. What is compost?

Compost  is organic matter that has been decomposed and recycled as a fertiliser and/or soil improver (it’s not the same as the bags of stuff you buy from the garden centre).

2. How does the composting process work?

There are 3 stages to the composting process:

Degradation – microbes feed off the various chemicals in organic waste (mainly carbon and nitrogen) – the abundance of these chemicals mean the microbes multiply rapidly, generating heat and so rasing the temperature of the decomposing material;. a new set of microbes that operate at a higher temperature take over the process.

Conversion – as the temperature in the waste material starts to drop as microbial activity declines,  microorganisms that operate at lower temperatures take over and complete the decomposition process.

Maturation – microbial activity decreases and the material cools down, providing the ideal conditions for earthworms, insects and mites to complete the process. chemical reactions make the material more stable and suitable for use with plants in the garden.

Compost can be made in as little as six to eight weeks, or, more usually, it can take a year or more. In general, the more effort you put in, the quicker you will get compost.

worms at work in compost-making

worms at work in compost-making

3. What is needed to make compost?

Composting organisms require four equally important things to work effectively:

  • Carbon — for energy; the microbial oxidation of carbon produces the heat, if included at suggested levels
    • High carbon materials tend to be brown and dry.
  • Nitrogen — to grow and reproduce more organisms to oxidize the carbon.
    • High nitrogen materials tend to be green (or colorful, such as fruits and vegetables) and wet.
  • Oxygen — for oxidizing the carbon, the aerobic decomposition process.
  • Water — in the right amounts to maintain activity without causing anaerobic conditions (this is the other sort of decomposition that is slower and operates in leaf mould).

Certain ratios of these materials will provide beneficial bacteria with the nutrients to work at a rate that will heat up the pile. As a general rule you should have a 50/50 mix of ‘browns’ and ‘greens’. 

4. What is compost used for?

Compost can be rich in nutrients and is added to soil, supplying these as well as humus – a fine-textured material that improves soil strucure. It provides a rich growing medium, or a porous, absorbent material that holds moisture and soluble minerals, providing the support and nutrients in which plants can flourish, although it is rarely used alone, being primarily mixed with soil,sand, grit, bark chips and other materials to produce loam, the very best of growing mediums. Compost can be tilled directly into the soil or growing medium to boost the level of organic matter and the overall fertility of the soil. Compost that is ready to be used as an additive is dark brown or even black with an earthy smell.

Soil improving with compost

Soil improving with compost

5. How old is the practice of composting?

Composting as a recognized practice dates to at least the early Roman Empire, since Pliny the Elder (AD 23-79). Traditionally, composting involved piling organic materials until the next planting season, at which time the materials would have decayed enough to be ready for use in the soil. The advantage of this method is that little working time or effort is required from the composter and it fits in naturally with agricultural practices in temperate climates. Disadvantages (from the modern perspective) are that space is used for a whole year, some nutrients might be leached due to exposure to rainfall, and disease-producing organisms and insects may not be adequately controlled.

6. I’ve heard that human urine is beneficial to compost making – is this true?

Human urine can be put onto compost (and it can be added directly to the garden as a fertiliser!). Adding urine to compost usually will increase temperatures (it is an ‘activator’) and therefore increase its ability to destroy pathogens and unwanted seeds. You can also compost:

  • Anything that was once living, but some items are best avoided (see next question)
  • For best results, use a mixture of types of ingredient. Remember the rough guide is to use equal amounts by volume of ‘greens’ and ‘browns’.
  • Some things, like grass mowings and soft young weeds, rot quickly. They work as ‘activators’, getting the composting started, but on their own will decay to a smelly mess.
  • Older and tougher plant material is slower to rot but gives body to the finished compost – and usually makes up the bulk of a compost heap. Woody items decay very slowly; they are best chopped or shredded first, where appropriate.
kitchen waste into the compost bin

kitchen waste into the compost bin

7. What can’t  I compost?

Basically, don’t compost things that will attract vermin, plus one or two other things that contain potentially harmful materials:

  • Meat

  • Fish

  • Cooked food

  • Coal & coke ash

  • Cat litter

  • Dog faeces

  • Disposable nappies

Compost bin - wooden with slatted, removable front for easy access

Compost bin – wooden with slatted, removable front for easy access

8. What sorts of composting are there?

There are basically two types of composting – hot and cool. If you generate a lot of waste material and quite often you can actively manage (turn) your compost pile to replenish the oxygen within it and so achieve high temperatures and rapid decomposition – ‘hot’ composting. If you produce less waste , less frequently then you are more likely to have a ‘cool’ composting system that doesn;t require as much turning, generates less heat and will take longer to decompose.

There are different scales of composting from large centralised sites through community schemes where local people collect green waste and compost it centrally to home and school – based composting using a range of different types of bin – old pallets used to construct a slatted wooden box, plastic bins, wormeries and so on. There’s a bin and system to suit most situations, so if you live in a flat and only have a balcony you can even compost on a small scale here.

9. Why should I compost?

As landfill space declines (and the cost of dumping into landfill for hard – pressed councils and taxpayers increases), worldwide interest in recycling by means of composting is growing, since composting is a process for converting decomposable organic materials into useful stable products. Apart from reducing landfill and greenhouse gases, composting provides a wonderful material for improving your garden or other growing areas.

Plastic Dalek compost bin

Plastic Dalek compost bin

10. How can I start to compost?

You can make compost simply by adding compostable items to a compost heap when you feel like it. It will all rot eventually but may take a long time, may not produce a very pleasant end product, and could smell.

With a little extra attention – taking the ‘COOL HEAP’ route – you could improve things dramatically.

If you want to produce more compost in a short time, and are able to put more effort into it, follow the ‘HOT HEAP’ route.

So, why not create a compost heap, or if you want a neater solution make or buy a compost bin – there are various models on the market and in England you can get a discounted deal on some plastic bins. Think about the best site for your bin – and Get composting!

Sources and Links:

Wikipedia

Garden Organic

homecompsoting.org.uk

recycle now- composting

Royal Horticulural Sociaety- composting

Reducing wastelines and making earth – article about master composter training in Norfolk

Decorate your compost bin competition and other Compost Awareness Week events

Old School Gardener

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