Tag Archive: garden


Old friends Jen and Dave are currently visiting Cambodia and Vietnam. Yesterday I had an email from them with some interesting pictures of public gardens in ‘the  French equivalent of Simla’ as Jen describes the mountain retreat of Da Lat. After the heat of Ho Chi Minh City they are enjoying the ability to walk around in only 24 degrees (it’s been hovering around freezing here in Norfolk)! Jen describes the nearby Flower Gardens as a ‘complete revelation’ and says:

‘Everything was sternly ordered with avenues of bonsai. Cosmos was planted in strict rows, Gertrude Jekyll eat your heart out!’

Here are her pictures, her favourite being the Vietnamese flag flanked by a topiary teapot (I must admit at first glance I thought the teapot was some sort of squirrel)!

gf

Old School Gardener

wisteria

elps-gardenfurniture-cleaningWood- clean with a pressure washer or stiff brush and water; apply wood preserver to non-treated softwoods, and apply, if desired, teak oil to hardwoods once a year to keep their colour.

bench cleaningCast iron- clean with a damp cloth. It rusts slowly when exposed to air. You will need to sand down (or use a wire brush/wire wool) damaged areas and apply a rust converter, followed by an undercoat and topcoat of paint.

Aluminium- wipe down with a damp cloth, and oil all fittings and moving parts.

patioset_electricsanderPlastic and resin- clean with a damp cloth and detergent, or with a proprietary spray cleaner.

pressurewashingStone- clean with a pressure washer or stiff brush and soapy water.

Upholstery- use a proprietary liquid or spray for cleaning.

Source: ‘Short Cuts to Great Gardens’- Reader’s Digest 1999

Old School Gardener

 

Planter with various kinds of Nicotiana (Tobacco plant) among others

Planter with various kinds of Nicotiana (Tobacco plant)

paulownia-500x500So many trees beginning with ‘P’- which to choose? My choice is a tree that poses a dilemma- to prune or not to prune? If you do, you will encourage massive foliage which is a fabulously exotic addition to any garden. Alternatively, don’t and you get some wonderful flowers…the choice is yours.

Common name: Foxglove Tree, Empress Tree, Princess Tree

Native areas: Pawlonia tomentosa (syn. P. imperialis) is native to Japan and central and western China, where it has become virtually extinct due to a pathogen. It has become very common in North America, where it is considered an exotic invasive species. It was introduced to the UK in 1834.

Historical notes: The tree was named after Anna Pavlovna, daughter of Tsar Paul I and wife of Prince Willem of the Netherlands. In China, the tree is planted at the birth of a girl. The fast-growing tree matures when she does. When she is eligible for marriage the tree is cut down and carved into wooden articles for her dowry. Carving the wood of Paulownia is an art form in Japan and China. In legend, it is said that the phoenix will only land on the Empress Tree and only when a good ruler is in power. Several Asian string instruments are made from P. tomentosa.

The soft, lightweight seeds were commonly used as a packing material by Chinese porcelain exporters in the 19th century, before the development of polystyrene packaging. Packing cases would often leak or burst open in transit and scatter the seeds along rail tracks and near to ports. The magnitude of the numbers of seeds used for packaging, together with seeds deliberately planted for ornament, has allowed the species to be viewed as an invasive species in areas where the climate is suitable for its growth, notably Japan and the eastern United States.

Features: Paulownia tomentosa is an extremely fast-growing tree; its growth rings have been measured at three every inch. However the UK’s climate slows this down, and any growth under a pencil thickness generally succumbs to winter frosts, and which in turn contribute to its overall broadness. It will ultimately grow to 10–25 m (33–82 ft) tall, with large heart-shaped to five-lobed leaves 15–40 cm (6–16 in) across, arranged in opposite pairs on the stem. On young growth, the leaves may be in whorls of three and be much bigger than the leaves on more mature growth. The leaves can be mistaken for those of the Catalpa.

The very fragrant flowers are formed in autumn and then open in spring before the leaves in early spring (May), on panicles 10–30 cm long, with a tubular purple corolla 4–6 cm long resembling a foxglove flower. However, if there is a prolonged period where winter temperatures fall below minus 5 degrees celsius, no flowers will develop the following spring.The fruit is a dry egg-shaped capsule 3–4 cm long, containing numerous tiny seeds. The seeds are winged and disperse by wind and water. Pollarded trees do not produce flowers, as these only form on mature wood. A mature tree in its native environment can produce up to 20 million seeds a year!

Uses: P. tomentosa is cultivated as an ornamental tree in parks and gardens. It has gained the RHS Award of garden Merit (AGM). The characteristic large size of the young growth is exploited by gardeners: by pollarding the tree and ensuring there is vigorous new growth every year, massive leaves are produced (up to 60 cm across). These are popular in the modern style of gardening which uses large-foliaged and “architectural” plants. Alternatively it can be grown for its attractive, fragrant flowers.

Growing conditions: a fast growing, medium to large tree, it does best in a sunny, reasonably sheltered site, preferably in moist, humus-rich, fertile soils. Protect young trees from frost. Can be pollarded. Very tolerant of atmospheric pollution.

Paulowni_imperialis_SZ10Further information:

Wikipedia

RHS- Pawlonia tomentosa

Barcham trees directory- Pawlonia tomentosa

Old School Gardener

leeky boat

WP_20151112_14_20_33_ProThe ‘dynamic duo’ of Peter and I continued with strimming the avenues and connecting paths in the outer gardens at Blickling this week.

I arrived to find the gardeners and Peter gathered around a large, new trailer which had just been delivered. I later looked this over and had an interesting discussion about its features and how useful an addition it was going to be to the gardeners’ armoury….

Hmm...big, shiny, but how useful?

Hmm…big, shiny….

The ladies, meanwhile were finishing off cutting back and clearing the double borders, which only a few weeks ago had been resplendent in their late summer colours.

Cutting back the double borders on a beautiful autumn day

Cutting back the double borders on a beautiful autumn day

Having adjusted the belt on the strimmer I found I was really getting into my stride (or should I say ‘swing’?) with this useful machine- it was rather like old-time scything but without the muscle power needed for that. However, it was sweaty work clearing around trees and the edges of shrubs  where the mowers can’t reach.

After lunch I had an interesting chat with gardener Ed and Peter about the way the avenues of Beech, Oak and other trees have to be regularly cleared of fast-growing understorey trees and shrubs such as holly, yew and rhododendrons. The impact of letting these plants over grow the trees was evident in the bent over trunks of some examples (or ‘on the huh’ as we say in Norfolk!).

The maintenance plan involves every year or so stooling (or coppicing) these vigourous plants and so maintaining  space around the avenue trees. As Ed pointed out, there are some clear examples of where action is going to be required in the near future, so perhaps Peter and I will be moved on to chain saws soon!

Blickling has a new website, why not take a look at the link below?

A virtually deserted garden at a sun-scanned Blickling..

A virtually deserted garden at a sun-scanned Blickling..

Further Information:

Blickling Hall website

Blickling Hall Facebook page

A 360 degree tour of Blickling Hall

Old School Gardener

 

bird feeder

olive potsThe ‘O’ in my A-Z of garden trees is a tree that has grown in popularity in the UK in recent years, though is a little tender. I have an olive tree growing in a pot in the courtyard here at Old School Garden. It’s a couple of years old and though producing fruit, these have not yet developed into anything edible….

Common name: Olive

Native areas:  found in much of  Africa and the Mediterranean basin, the arabian peninsula, southern asia and has been naturalised in many other places.

Olive characteristics from the Kohler Medicinal Pflanzen

Olive characteristics from the Kohler Medicinal Pflanzen

Historical notes: The olive tree as we know it today had its origin approximately 6,000 -7,000 years ago in the region corresponding to ancient Persia and Mesopotamia. It later spread from these countries to nearby territories corresponding to present-day Syria and Israel.

Olive oil has long been considered sacred. The olive branch was often a symbol of abundance, glory and peace. The leafy branches of the olive tree were ritually offered to deities and powerful figures as emblems of benediction and purification, and they were used to crown the victors of friendly games and bloody wars. Today, olive oil is still used in many religious ceremonies.

 Features: Olives grow very slowly, and over many years the trunk can attain a considerable diameter. One was recorded as exceeding 10 m (33 ft) in girth. Olive is an evergreen tree or shrub. It is short and squat, and rarely exceeds 8–15 m (26–49 ft) in height, and are generally confined to much more limited dimensions by frequent pruning. The yellow or light greenish-brown wood is often finely veined with a darker tint; being very hard and close-grained, it is valued by woodworkers. 

Uses:  As a small tree with a rounded form, the olive can take on an attractively gnarled appearance as it develops and is a good choice for small gardens. It has small, but attractive leathery grey-green leaves and small,  fragrant white flowers. They can be grown as half standards pruned to the classical Tuscan shape, or as full standards as well as more natural forms. They can benefit from a severe biannual prune in April, but as the fruit develops at the tips of the previous year’s growth you’ll sacrifice one year’s crop. These look especially good in teracotta pots and in Mediterranean style gardens.

An Olive Tree in a garden setting

An Olive Tree in a garden setting

Growing conditions:  If you have a protected city garden or live in a mild area, olives can be grown outdoors as long as you give them a sunny position and plant them in well-drained soil, for example, against a warm wall would be ideal.  In cold or northern regions winter protection in a conservatory for example, will be required.

Once established they are extremely drought-tolerant, but plants will do better if watered regularly in dry spells during the growing seasons. To encourage strong growth, it’s a good idea to feed each spring with a general fertiliser, such as Vitax Q4. Olives naturally shed their older leaves in spring (April in the UK) as new growth begins.

Olives are not entirely hardy in the UK, and will be damaged by temperatures below -10°C (14°F). So, in colder areas of the country, you can grow olives in large (60cm, 24ins) diameter and depth) containers. Plant in a well-drained mix of compost, such as loam-based John Innes No 3 with 20 percent by volume added horticultural grit. You can place containers outdoors in summer and then move into a cold conservatory, porch or greenhouse over winter.

Olives ready to eat- Picture by K'm

Olives ready to eat- Picture by K’m

Although they can cope with dry periods, olives in containers need regular watering and feeding to produce fruit. During the growing season keep the compost moist and feed with a balanced liquid fertiliser such as Phostrogen or seaweed, every month. In winter, you can reduce watering, but don’t let the compost dry out completely.

Olive trees can live for several centuries and can remain productive for as long if they are pruned correctly and regularly. 

The Olive Tree of Jerusalem mural

The Olive Tree of Jerusalem mural

Further information:

Wikipedia

RHS- Olea europaea

Barcham trees directory- Olea europaea

‘The Olive Branches Out’- Daily Telegraph

Old School Gardener

WP_20151105_12_20_46_ProMore strimming this week in my short session at Blickling.

The ladies were whisked away to pull up the Penstemons for over wintering and to make way for next spring’s display of Hyacinths.

WP_20151105_12_29_36_ProFellow volunteer Peter and I were sent to the wider gardens where the grass had been mown a few days before, but where the mower couldn’t go, we were to strim away the long grass around tree trunks and edges etc. There are several avenues of beech and other trees radiating away form the more formal gardens area and we worked our way along and around these.

As I’ve reported before, these strimmers are pretty strong and use a plastic-sheathed metal cord which is quite capable of cutting through pretty thick stems as well as grass. We were mindful of this and were careful not to go too near the trunks of the trees for fear of ‘ring-barking’ them, which causes wounds that are open to disease and rot.

WP_20151105_12_21_22_ProThe Hall has now closed for the winter (apart from special events and group visits) and the gardens are on shorter opening hours. The last colour of flower has now pretty much disappeared and the focus in the gardens is on cutting down, pulling out, dividing and mulching in preparation for winter.

Further Information:

Blickling Hall website

Blickling Hall Facebook page

A 360 degree tour of Blickling Hall

Old School Gardener

 

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